MOROCCO | AL HOCEIMA الحسيمة

Al-Hoceima is a great place to spend a few days. Quiet, safe, relaxing and hassle-free, this modern seaside resort is full of proud and genial Berbers with a surprisingly independent, Western outlook, far more than any other town in the north. In fact, if the northern Berbers had their own country, this would be its capital. There is far more of the Berber tongue, Tarifit, spoken than Spanish.

Founded by the Spanish as Villa Sanjuro, the town was built as a garrison after the Rif Wars in the early 20th century; rebel Abd al-Krim operated nearby. Independence brought the name change to Al-Hoceima, but Spanish influence remains strong in language, architecture and business.

In recent years many of Al-Hoceima’s émigrés have returned and have ploughed money into the town, particularly into its booming tourism industry. The wide Pl Mohammed VI has new fountains and a sweeping corniche follows the coast. The pretty Pl du Rif with its Mauresque buildings is slated to be turned into a pedestrian zone. Best of all, the wonderful Al-Hoceima National Park has been carefully opened to rural tourism – an opportunity not to be missed.

The town sits atop high cliffs overlooking two coves, one a beach (Plage Quemado) and the other a commercial port. Blvd Mohammed V parallels the edge from the Spanish College at one end to Pl du Rif at the other. Most of the banks, hotels and restaurants are along or close to here, with budget options clustered around Pl du Rif. The flat grid of wide streets is easy to walk and navigate. The three other town beaches lie further south, along with El Peñón de Alhucemas, one of the last bits of the Spanish protectorate.